Awkwafina: The Unlikely Cook review – the heir to a legendary eatery … who sets soup on fire

She is completely baffled in the kitchen, but the star valiantly resurrects her family’s famous restaurant. Her journey is chaotic, hilarious – and deeply moving It starts both very well and very badly does Awkwafina: The Unlikely Cook. On the one hand, our host’s absolute ignora

She is completely baffled in the kitchen, but the star valiantly resurrects her family’s famous restaurant. Her journey is chaotic, hilarious – and deeply moving It starts both very well and very badly does Awkwafina: The Unlikely Cook. On the one hand, our host’s absolute ignorance of how food works – or pans, or knives, or plates – has a refreshing authenticity about it.

Too often in these shows, in which a celebrity goes on A Journey to acquire basic knowledge in what is generally considered to be a normal field of human endeavour, their lack of exposure to it or inability therein is pretended or hammed up. But actor, rapper and comedian Awkwafina – real name Nora Lum, which is what she uses for this series beyond the title, for reasons that will become clear – is the real, wholly baffled deal. Non-game recognises non-game, and as a kitchenphobe myself, I see the truth in her crouched stance by the oven or hob, fearful yet hostile to anything they may ask of her.

We see her pour milk over a couple of eggs she has just lobbed doubtfully into a pan, the tentativeness with which she approaches spatulas and ladles, the hatred in her eyes when presented with raw ingredients – it all speaks to someone who has remained truly untouched by the culinary arts and was, at least until a commissioning editor approached with an idea, happy to remain so. Continue reading...