True North by Paul Theroux review – an American’s view of Canada

The veteran travel writer turns his eye for detail on his northern neighbour and its people Paul Theroux’s arrival in Canada doesn’t go well. An immigration officer called Sweeney finds a small pocketknife in his car and fines him $500 for failing to declare a weapon. “I’m going

The veteran travel writer turns his eye for detail on his northern neighbour and its people Paul Theroux’s arrival in Canada doesn’t go well. An immigration officer called Sweeney finds a small pocketknife in his car and fines him $500 for failing to declare a weapon. “I’m going to make you famous,” he angrily tells her, stumping up.

Maybe he will, with this book. Canadians are reputed to be polite and easygoing, “slaves to their courtesy”, but the country has changed enormously in recent years. Will Theroux find it stuffed with Sweeney-ites?

Luckily the answer is no. He issues a warning that, after 11 previous travel books, this may be his last; global overtourism appals him and so does much travel writing. But he shares Jack Kerouac’s delight in being on the road, and from his home in Massachusetts it’s just a four-hour drive to the border.

His purpose is less to check out “the strangers next door” than to visit the village of Yamaska, in Quebec. It was there that a Frenchman called Antoine Theroux settled in the 17th century; a dozen or more Theroux families still live there; one local street is called Rue Theroux. The author isn’t only made welcome but presented with a certificate of honour by the local mayor.

He repays the honour with a long chapter of family history. Continue reading...